Ambrette is a Musk Used in Perfumes
Musk plays a vital role in perfumery, representing an entire olfactory family on its own. First discovered in Antiquity, these musks primarily came from certain animal species, with a few exceptions derived from plants, such as Ambrette. Today, the use of animal-based musks is prohibited.
To replace these animal-derived raw materials, chemistry has advanced with the emergence of synthetic molecules like Muscone, Ambrettolide, and Helvetolide. Some of these molecules are also naturally present in animal musks, but they are now synthetically reproduced to avoid impacting animal species. Plant-based musks, on the other hand, are still used, with Ambrette being the most well-known among them.
The History of Musks
Animal-derived musks were highly potent and carried animalistic and heady notes. From Antiquity to the Middle Ages, they were mostly used for their medicinal and Ayurvedic properties. While they were used in China to drive away evil spirits, they were also prized in the Middle East, where they were paired with incense to scent salons and clothing.
From the 12th century onward, their medicinal use faded in favor of perfumes. Animal notes like civet (musk), ambergris (musk), and jasmine were used to mask the “bad” odors of the time due to their strong and persistent scents. They were kept in scent apples: small hollow spheres worn around the neck or at the waist.
Animal musks were expensive and highly coveted.
Ambrette in Perfumery
Ambrette is an herbaceous plant that grows in the tropical forests of Asia and South America. It belongs to the botanical family Malvaceae, which includes numerous perennial shrubs. It forms small bushes that can grow over 3 meters high, and its yellow flowers are often confused with those of hibiscus, a close relative. Contrary to appearances, it is not the flowers but the seeds of its fruit that are used in perfumery.
Ambrette is closely related to hibiscus and is scientifically known as Hibiscus abelmoscus.
The Raw Material from Ambrette
The raw material derived from Ambrette and used in perfumery comes from its seeds. The fruits, which resemble giant beans, are harvested at maturity during the summer when they turn from green to brown. These large, fuzz-covered capsules contain a precious treasure: Ambrette seeds. They are separated and then sun-dried to reduce their moisture content.
Next, the seeds are crushed and steam-distilled to extract Ambrette seed essential oil. However, this essential oil is solid and hard to dissolve due to the presence of fatty acids, primarily palmitic acid. Therefore, it is necessary to refine the Ambrette essential oil to make it usable in perfumery. The essential oil is washed with alcohol to eliminate the fatty acids and give it a more “liquid” appearance.
Due to its solid and waxy texture, Ambrette essential oil is often called “Ambrette Seed Absolute.” The supercritical CO2 extraction method can also be used.
However, its use in perfumes remains limited, as it is one of the most expensive raw materials in perfumery.
The Ambrette, from the Perfumer’s Perspective
The scent of Ambrette is powerful but does not have overly pronounced animal notes. Its fragrance is softer, more delicate, and silky. Multiple facets accompany this musky note, with powdery iris, woody nutty, and fruity red fruit notes.
Musk notes are base notes that give perfumes longevity. They act as fixatives, allowing heart and base notes to persist longer.
Some perfumes around the Ambrette note
- Egoiste – Chanel – 1990
- Ambrette 9 – Le Labo – 2006
- Elle – Yves Saint Laurent – 2007
- Iris Noir – Yves Rocher – 2007
- Dior Homme – Dior – 2014
- N°18 – Chanel – 2016
- Parisian Musc – Matière Première – 2019
- Bois d’Ambrette – Atelier Materi – 2019
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