Known for the famous Earl Grey tea, Bergamot is a citrus fruit full of mysteries. There are several theories regarding the etymology of the word “bergamot.” It may come from the Turkish “bey armut,” meaning “lord’s pear” due to its shape, or it could simply be derived from the Italian city of “Bergamo,” where it was originally cultivated.
Whether from Turkey or Italy, the origin of Bergamot remains somewhat unclear. However, it has spread worldwide through merchants and has become quite popular. Bergamot is used in many ways: as a seasoning in dishes, in tea, for its olfactory properties, and even for medicinal purposes.
In perfumery, Jean-Marie Farina made Bergamot famous. After a stay in Italy, he created Eau de Cologne: a plant hydrosol with a base of Bergamot essential oil.
Bergamot in Perfumes
Bergamot is the fruit of the bergamot tree, which belongs to the Rutaceae family, like most citrus fruits. The bergamot tree is the result of a hybridization between a lemon tree and a bitter orange tree (Citrus aurantium). Smaller than a mandarin, Bergamot ranges between green and yellow depending on its ripeness: the fruit turns yellow with the cold.
The bergamot tree is primarily cultivated in Mediterranean and warm climates, such as in the Calabria region of Italy, Morocco, and Portugal.
Raw Material from Bergamot
The fruits are hand-harvested between November and January. They are then processed through cold pressing to obtain Bergamot essential oil. Whole fruits are placed in a machine with small spikes that peel the skin of the bergamots. The essential oil of citrus fruits is contained in the pericarp (the outer part of the skin).
The mixture of skin and essential oil is then subjected to steam distillation, followed by decanting to isolate the essential oil.
A rectification process may be applied to the Bergamot essential oil to remove bergaptenes, which are highly photosensitizing (they can cause reactions with sunlight). Rectification is a purification process that involves distillation and isolating the fraction containing the compounds to be removed, in this case, the bergaptenes.
The Bergamot, from the Perfumer’s Viewpoint
Bergamot belongs to the olfactory family of Hesperides, which includes all citrus fruits. These notes are very volatile and thus appear as top notes in perfumes.
The scent of Bergamot essential oil is a blend of a citrusy lemon note and a floral freesia note. There are also a few accompanying facets: a spicy touch of pepper, a zesty hint, and a subtly aromatic note.
Some fragrances around the Bergamot note
- 4711 Original – Eau de Cologne 4711 – 1792
- Eau Sauvage – Dior – 1966
- Acqua di Gio – Giorgio Armani – 1996
- Bergamote – The Different Company – 2003
- Bergamote 22 – Le Labo – 2006
- Acqua Universalis – Maison Francis Kurkdjian – 2009
- Ma Bergamote – Fragonard – 2017
- Bergamote Fantastico – Guerlain – 2023
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