Cinnamon is a multifaceted spice, found in cooking, traditional medicine, and, of course, perfumery. Its warm and spicy scent adds depth and sensuality to fragrance compositions, making it a timeless ingredient. This article invites you to explore the world of cinnamon in perfumery, covering its origins, characteristics, extraction process, and use in perfumes.
The History of Cinnamon
The Origin of Cinnamon
Cinnamon is an ancient spice, cultivated and cherished for over 4,000 years in Southeast Asia, particularly in Sri Lanka and India. Ancient civilizations used it for its medicinal properties, aromatic virtues, and as a symbol of wealth. Trade routes helped spread this spice to distant civilizations such as Mesopotamia, Ancient Egypt, and China.
In Egypt, cinnamon played a role in funeral rituals for its purifying properties. Embalmers used cinnamon powder and oil in mummification processes, preserving bodies while diffusing a pleasant scent. It was also incorporated into balms and beauty products, highlighting its recognized cosmetic benefits.
With the expansion of the Roman Empire, cinnamon spread across Europe, becoming a luxury reserved for the elite. Roman and Greek aristocrats used cinnamon not only in religious rituals but also as an aromatic ingredient to add an exotic, spicy note to their wines and dishes. Thus, cinnamon became a symbol of wealth and refinement.
The Arrival in Europe
Cinnamon reached Europe during the great maritime explorations of the 15th and 16th centuries, when Portuguese and Dutch explorers conquered the cinnamon-rich islands of Ceylon (Sri Lanka) and Southeast Asia. Venetian and Genoese merchants introduced cinnamon to Mediterranean trade, and it quickly became an essential spice in Europe, valued for both its aroma and prestige. By the 17th century, perfumers had incorporated cinnamon into their creations, recognizing its refined and warm spicy notes.
Cinnamon in Perfumery
Characteristics and Cultivation of Cinnamon
Cinnamon comes from the inner bark of trees belonging to the Cinnamomum genus, a family of tropical plants.
These trees thrive in warm, humid climates, favoring tropical regions for their cultivation. To produce cinnamon, farmers prune the trees to encourage young branch growth. Only the inner bark of two-to-three-year-old shoots is harvested. This process requires skill: workers carefully cut and peel the bark, which is then dried to form cinnamon sticks.
These sticks are either ground into powder or used directly for essential oil extraction. Cinnamon cultivation follows ancestral know-how, passed down through generations, ensuring the quality and authenticity of the raw material used in perfumery.
Cinnamon Varieties Used in Perfumery
Though several types of cinnamon exist, two main species stand out in perfumery : Ceylon Cinnamon (Cinnamomum verum) et the Cinnamon from China (Cinnamomum cassia).
- Ceylon Cinnamon (Cinnamomum verum) : Native to Sri Lanka, this variety is considered “true cinnamon.”
- Cassia Cinnamon (Cinnamomum cassia) : Originating from China and Southeast Asia, Cassia cinnamon is spicier and less sweet.
Raw materials from cinnamon
Cinnamon essential oil is primarily extracted through steam distillation. This process involves exposing cinnamon bark to steam, which releases aromatic compounds contained in its fibers. The steam, infused with fragrant molecules, is then condensed and separated to obtain cinnamon essential oil.
Another variety, cinnamon leaf essential oil, is extracted from the tree’s leaves. This oil has a greener, spicier scent compared to bark-derived essential oil.
Cinnamon from the Perfumer’s Perspective
Cinnamon is a unique ingredient in perfumery, offering unparalleled olfactory richness. It is prized for its spicy, warm, and sweet qualities, evoking indulgence, comfort, and exoticism.
Cinnamon is widely used in oriental, woody, and gourmand fragrances. Its warm spice makes it an ideal ingredient for winter perfumes, creating cozy and festive atmospheres. It blends well with notes like vanilla, sandalwood, amber, and patchouli to create complex and captivating fragrances.
Sweet, warm and spicy at the same time, the essential oil of Ceylon cinnamon has peppery, round, woody notes with a hint of amber styrax.
The essential oil of China Cinnamon resembles that of Ceylon but warmer and rounder by the presence of cinnamique aldehyde in even greater quantity.
The essential oil of Cinnamon leaf has notes similar to clove. Notes of cold, almost green metallic spices intertwined with a touch of pepper and cinnamon.
Some perfumes around the Cinnamon note
- Cinnabar – Estée Lauder – 1978
- Boss Bottled – Hugo Boss – 1998
- Grain de Soleil – Fragonard – 1999
- One Million – Paco Rabanne – 2008
- Portrait of a Lady – Frederic Malle – 2010
- Pumpkin Pie – Demeter Fragrance – 2011
- Spicebomb – Viktor&Rolf – 2012
- Angel’s Share – Kilian Paris – 2020
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