Oud Wood is also known as Agarwood, Agarwood Wood, or Aloeswood. Ancient civilizations, including the Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans, used it in the creation of perfumes, incense, and even during religious rituals.
In the Middle Ages, Oud wood gained popularity in the Arab world, where it became an essential element in oriental perfumes. Oud quickly increased in value and was transported by merchants along the Silk Road, spreading its fame across countries.
Oud in Perfumes
Oud Wood is a defense resin that naturally forms in Aquilaria trees. Belonging to the Thymelaeaceae botanical family, Aquilaria trees are large, reaching up to 30 meters in height. They thrive in the tropical and subtropical climates of Southeast Asia. The flowers of the Aquilaria tree are small and inconspicuous, ranging from white to pale yellow, with small pockets filled with seeds.
There are many species of Aquilaria used in perfumery. The main ones are: Aquilaria malaccensis in India, Aquilaria crassna in Laos, Aquilaria sinensis in China, Aquilaria agallocha in Bangladesh, and Aquilaria microcarpa in Sumatra.
Raw Material from Oud
The trees are naturally infected by insects or manually treated with fungi. After the infection, these trees produce a dark, rich, and aromatic resin to protect themselves. It takes 6 to 7 years before the resin can be harvested to obtain good-quality Oud.
Once the infection is “sufficient,” the trees are cut down and reduced to chips. The chips are then placed in large vats and fermented in water for 7 to 30 days to soften them. Finally, they are distilled by steam distillation to obtain Oud essential oil.
Only the wood is distilled, not the resin. The resin is kept for performing fumigations, which are highly prized in the Middle East.
There are three qualities: Boya (from very young trees with very light color), Boha (medium quality), and Khara (the darkest and highest quality).
Oud from the Perfumer’s Perspective
Perfumers appreciate its rich, woody, spicy, and sometimes smoky nuances, which add depth and unmatched complexity to olfactory compositions. Used for thousands of years, this precious wood has become an iconic ingredient that adds sophistication and mystery to perfumes.
In perfumes, Oud primarily appears as a base note. Its olfactory facets vary depending on the origin and quality. Animalic, woody, and earthy notes blend with fruity aspects of apple and osmanthus, leathery, smoky, or even acidic notes.
Some Fragrances around the Oud note
- M7 – Yves Saint Laurent – 2002
- Oud Wood – Tom Ford – 2007
- Oud Immortel – Byredo – 2010
- Oud Ispahan – Dior – 2012
- Precious Oud – Van Cleef & Arpels – 2011
- Luxor – Xerjoff – 2020
- Bois de Oud – Solinotes – 2023
- Elevated Oud – Zara – 2023
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