Rosemary is an aromatic plant whose use across various fields has spanned centuries. As early as Antiquity, the Greeks crafted rosemary wreaths for ceremonies. In the Middle Ages, it was placed under pillows to ward off evil spirits and used in medicine as a stimulant. Later, its use in perfumery dates back to the 17th century. In fact, it was one of the main ingredients in the first alcoholic perfume: the Queen of Hungary’s Water. Today, it is also used in herbal medicine for its antiseptic and purifying properties.
The etymology of the word “rosemary” is believed to come from the Greek rhops myrinos, meaning “aromatic shrub.”
The Rosemary in Perfumes
Rosemary belongs to the Lamiaceae family, like most aromatic plants (lavender, mint, thyme, etc.). It is a small shrub that blooms with violet flowers from April to May and can grow up to 2 meters tall.
Native to the Mediterranean basin, rosemary thrives in rocky terrain, scrubland, and garrigue landscapes. It also grows in Morocco, Tunisia, and Spain.
There are very few different species of rosemary, and they are quite similar. All of them can produce essential oil, but the concentrations of camphor and eucalyptol—the main molecules in rosemary essential oil.
The Raw Material Derived from Rosemary
Rosemary is harvested when it is in bloom, from April to May. The flowering tops are hand-picked, dried, and then distilled. They are placed in a large vat where steam passes through, carrying the aromatic molecules. This steam is then condensed into a liquid form. The resulting liquid is decanted to separate the oily phase (essential oil) from the aqueous phase (hydrosol) in order to extract the rosemary essential oil.
This essential oil mainly contains aromatic molecules such as eucalyptol, alpha-pinene, and camphor.
Rosemary from a Perfumer’s Perspective
Rosemary is widely used in cologne compositions, particularly in Eau de Cologne. It serves as a top/middle note, bringing freshness and an aromatic touch.
Rosemary essential oil may seem simple and familiar, but upon deeper analysis, its scent reveals multiple complex facets.
Belonging to the aromatic family, it is predominantly fresh and camphoraceous. However, an orange-like terpenic note emerges at the top, accompanied by a hint of pine resin and an herbaceous facet. Finally, a subtle earthy carrot note appears in the base.
Some Perfumes around Rosemary note
- Eau de Cologne Impériale – Guerlain – 1860
- L’Eau Trois – Dyptique – 1975
- Chrome – Azzaro – 1996
- Eryo – Yves Rocher – 2002
- Fierce – Abercrombie & Fitch – 2002
- Un Jardin sur le Toit – Hermès – 2011
- Stockolm 1978 – Parfumerie Vilhelm – 2015
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