Ylang-Ylang is a tropical tree with fragrant flowers.
It is primarily used in perfumery and aromatherapy for its relaxing properties.
The botanical name of Ylang-Ylang is Cananga odorata. The origin of the word Ylang-Ylang comes from “alang alang,” which means “flower of flowers” in Filipino.
It was first distilled in Manila in 1860 by navigator Albert Schwenger. Later, in the 19th century, French colonists introduced the tree to islands such as the Comoros.
Today, Ylang-Ylang is cultivated in Madagascar and the Comoros.
Ylang-Ylang in Perfumery
Originally from Asia, Ylang-Ylang belongs to the Annonaceae botanical family.
The Cananga odorata tree thrives in the tropical climates of Asia. Its flowers start as white and turn yellow when mature. They resemble “large drooping hands.” In the wild, these trees can grow up to 30 meters, but when cultivated, they are pruned to facilitate flower harvesting.
The species Cananga odorata is the most widely used in perfumery because it produces the highest quality essential oil with the best yield. There are also two other species: Cananga genuina and Cananga macrophylla, but they are not used in perfumery.
Raw materials from the ylang-ylang
Ylang-Ylang flowers are harvested early in the morning before their fragrance evaporates. The extraction process for Ylang-Ylang essential oil is slightly different from other raw materials.
Fresh flowers undergo steam distillation, but in a fractionated process, meaning that different qualities of essential oil are obtained over time. These fractions are determined by the duration of distillation.
The first fraction is Ylang-Ylang Extra, which contains the most volatile molecules and top notes.
Then comes Ylang-Ylang I, followed by Ylang-Ylang II, and finally Ylang-Ylang III. The entire distillation process takes 12 to 20 hours.
There is also Ylang-Ylang Complete Essential Oil, which combines all fractions. Additionally, Ylang-Ylang Absolute can be obtained through solvent extraction.
Ylang-Ylang from the Perfumer’s Perspective
In perfumery, Ylang-Ylang Extra and Ylang-Ylang I essential oils are the most commonly used. Ylang-Ylang belongs to the floral olfactory family, making it a heart note.
Ylang-Ylang Extra essential oil is the lightest with a delicate floral note, a fruity touch and a hint of spice. Ylang-Ylang I is even more floral and slightly warmer and medicinal. Fraction II has an additional terpene note with a smoky, earthy carrot tip. Ylang-Ylang III is even more medicinal, spicy and woody.
Ylang-Ylang Complete Essential Oil is greener, fruity (banana-like), and spicy (clove-like). It is more complex, containing all the previously mentioned notes in varying amounts.
Finally, Ylang-Ylang Absolute is warmer than essential oils, featuring a floral note with a spicy undertone.
Some fragrances around the Ylang-Ylang
- Chant d’Arômes – Guerlain – 1965
- Cléa – Yves Rocher – 1980
- Ylang in Gold – M.Micallef – 2012
- Eau Mohéli – Dyptique – 2013
- Soleil Blanc – Tom Ford – 2016
- Ylang – Solinotes – 2019
- Ylang Cananga – Chloé – 2021
- Infusion d’Ylang – Prada – 2022
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